Build Updates

This page is designed as a supplement and/or update to the DVD’s that come with each FSD kit. Simply scroll down to the kit that you received and look for any changes, updates or recommended improvements to the building of your sloper. Please email FSD with any questions that you might have or if something is not covered in the DVD.

Posted - 4/17/2011

DVD Correction: From the Main Menu, if you click near the bottom where it says : “Some Final Thoughts”, you will note that there is no audio. But fear not...If you go to the section called “Final Assembly” from the Main Menu and then choose “Settings and Flight,” you will see the same video with the audio.

Posted - 4/17/2011

In “Part 3 - Installing Servos - B” it shows that your cuts into the wing for the servo wires comes together about 1.75” from the leading edge of the wing. Actually, you should make your cuts for the servo wires so they come together at the leading edge and not back from the leading edge.

Posted - 4/17/2011

Rare Earth Magnets supplied for the canopy are optional.

Kaze 40

Posted - 4-6-09

All Kaze 40 kits now come with a longer fuselage. This fuse is essentially the fuse from the Kaze 55. The longer fuse will allow for less balancing weight.

Posted - 9-19-08

The question came up regarding why hot glue is used on all aspects of gluing except when attaching the wing to the fuse, where 5 minute epoxy is used. When attaching the fuse, 5 minute epoxy allows you time to adjust the fuse and align it properly before it sets. Hot glue would not give you this time. In addition, 5 minute epoxy is a more secure adhesive for this critical part of the build. As mentioned in the DVD, wherever hot glue is used, you can choose to use 5 minute epoxy instead.

Posted - 9-17-08

Like all plank type slopers, dialing in the Kaze is not easy and can be frustrating. Keep experimenting with the throws and nose weight until it flies as intended.

The instructions call for the CG to be set at 1 3/4” back from the leading edge at the root. Further test flights indicate that this may be a little nose light. For your initial (maiden) flight, it is suggested that you error on the side of being too nose heavy. This will at least insure some stability. You can always remove the weight on subsequent flights.

If your landing area is rough, consider taping the fuse prior to Gooping. Theare a between the canopy and the wing is considered a weak area and could be reinforced.

Segway

Posted - 3-6-09

The Instruction DVD for the Segway is basically the same DVD for building the Kaze 40. Any additions or alterations will be included here.

The CG setting for the Segway is 4” from the Leading Edge at the Root.

Posted - 5/4/11

If your instructional DVD is not working well on your computer, be sue to try it on a regular DVD player and television.

Axis 60 and Axis 72

Posted - 9/22/2011

Gear for the Axis series- specifically the servos are Hitec’s HS-82 MG. This has been the servo that was used on all of the Axis prototypes and they seem to work well and they are relatively inexpensive. I would not suggest anything with less torque or speed. Anything “above” the HS-82 MG in speed and torque is certainly fine. Also...If you are using the “chain drive” system, it is best to us a Hitec servo in that the servo sprocket/gear is designed to fit Hitec. Click on the picture to the right to get more information on the Hitec-82 MG.

Posted - 9/28/2011

Build DVD: Those receiving the initial run of the Axis series will receive a “partial” Build DVD. This means that the DVD covers about 75% of the build. A completed DVD will be forwarded to you within a week when the build is completed.

Build DVD: I noticed that I was not very carefeul about making sure that my pack of smokes didn’t appear in the video. Sorry about that.

Posted - 10/1/2011

On the Axis 72 there is an issue with varying depths of the Wing Spar Channels. You may have one wing’s spar channel deeper than the other. Until the tooling can be fixed, you should know that this difference in depth should not in any way effect your build. Simply follow the instructions on the DVD and you should have no problems. The instructions on the DVD indicate that you should press the main spar down until it is below the surface of the foam (bottom of the wing). Once it is below the surface, simply be sure that the wing is pressed against its wing bed. It is NOT how straight the spar is, it is how straight the wing is. And you can only inure a straight wing when it is flush against its wing bed. If you have any questions, call me. -Paige (909) 338-6095

Posted - 10/1/2011

If you choose to use PU glue to secure the wing spars in place, be sure to place a sheet of waxed paper between the wing and the its wing bed. The PU glue has a tendency to bleed through the foam. This tendency to bleed through the foam is also what makes it the best for overall strength.

Posted - 10/2/2011

Sub-trailing edges are attached here in the shop as a part of prefabrication. Be sure to check where the sub-trailing edges are glued to the wing, If they appear loose or if there are gaps, simply add some 5 minute epoxy to insure that they are securely in place.

Posted - 10/3/2011

If you ordered a kit with the Chain Drive Elevator option, you may end up with two Sullivan pushrods and housing. Don’t let this confuse you. Even though you do not need the extra Sullivan pushrod and housing, it may come in handy if you ever decide to switch to a standard elevator.

If you ordered a Standard Kit, you may end up with both a wire spar for the elevator and a CF tube spar that typically only comes with the Chain Drive option. You can actually use the CF tube spar instead of the wire spar. It will give you a shape to the elevator. Simply attach the control arm so that it straddles the CF tube.

In both above cases...the CF tube spar in the Standard Kit and the extra Sullivan pushrod and housing in the Chain Drive Kit will not typically be included.

Posted - 10/7/2011

It is important to consider having the Main Wing Spar a little deeper in the wing. It needs to be deep enough that when you are cutting the channels for the servo wires that they will not interfere. The spar doesn’t need to be really deep...however if it is glued in at least 1/8” below the wing surface, you should be fine. If the wing spar is is right at the surface, there are still ways to get around it, Refer to the Axis Build DVD on how I solved the problem on my own kit.

Adjustments To Future Kits

1) The Main Wing Spar channel will be set further back to allow for larger servos and to make it easier to install the aileron servos. (Completed)
2) The hight of the rudder will be checked and made about 1.00” shorter.
3) Increase Aileron Chord from 20% to ~30%.

If you are undecided about a particular kit, viewing its build DVD is the best way to get a better idea of what it is all about.

Axis 60 and 72

Build DVD

Axis 60 and 72

Chain Drive DVD

Kaze 40-55 and Segway

Build DVD

Build Updates

Click Here to email FSD with your comments or suggestions.

Posted - 10/30/2011

In the DVD, I mention too late to be careful about how PU glue can travel (saturate) foam. When you are gluing the wood spars in place, be sure to lay down a sheet of waxed paper between the wing and its matching bed. This way, if/when the glue migrates through the foam, the wing will not become glued to the bed.