Made on a Mac

Welcome to the Build Update Page...

This page is designed as a supplement and/or update to the DVD’s that come with each FSD kit.  Simply scroll down to the kit that you received and look for any changes, updates or recommended improvements to the building of your sloper.


Please email FSD with any questions that you might have or if something is not covered in the DVD.

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Raptor 36 SL

Raptor 48 SL

Raptor 60 SL

The Raptor 60 SL has been re-released as of mid July.  The R60 received many of the same updates that were previously applied to the R36 and the R48.  This included rounding the fuse, a more secure tail section and better bays for installing gear.


In addition, The Raptor 60 SL has a beefier spar system.  This system includes .201 CF tubes as opposed to the standard CF ribbon spars that are featured in the smaller kits.  Extra long wing joiners have also been added which also serve as spars for a stiffer wing.

Notes:


  1. 1)The CG for the R60 SL is approximately between 1.50” - 2.00” back from the leading edge at the root.  I would recommend          that the initial setting for the CG be approximately 1.50”.  It is easier to fly a plane that is a little nose heavy than nose light.


  1. 2)On you initial flights, try and pick a day when the winds are at least 12 mph and the lift is good.  While the R60 can fly in lighter winds, it is best to start out your maiden flight with decent conditions.


  1. 3)When installing the wing spars be sure not to press down on the spar itself once it is in place.  It is best to press the wing against its top bed and hold until the epoxy is cured (about 5 minutes).


  1. 4)Hot glue is used to install the spars on the Raptor DVD.  While this is just fine for the smaller Raptors, I suggest using 5 minute epoxy to install the R60 wing spars.  In fact, 5 minute epoxy is excellent for installing the wing spars for all three Raptor kits (R36, R48 and R60).




Please note that the first part of the Raptor DVD (Part 1 - Installing Wing Spars) is not as clear as the rest of the parts throughout the DVD.  This was due to the loss of files and their eventual replacement.

Please note that the first part of the Raptor DVD (Part 1 - Installing Wing Spars) is not as clear as the rest of the parts throughout the DVD.  This was due to the loss of files and their eventual replacement.

Orbus

No updates.

Cobalt 45

No updates.

Ripper

Ripper kits no longer include Coroplast winglets and stab.  Winglets and vertical stab are now 3/16” balsa.

Suraci

  1. 1)It is recommended that the tail section be reinforced with additional CF tubing or ribbon spars.  Additional CF tubing will be    included on future kits.


  1. 2)Duel rates are recommended for the first few flights.  Keep the throws on low until the CG and trims have been set.  It is strongly suggested that you fly the Suraci at high rates in order to get maximum performance.


  1. 3)The Suraci likes speed.  Keep the air speed up until you locate the full speed range of the plane.


  1. 4)When attempting complex maneuvers or long combinations of “freestyle” flying, be sure to practice these moves from higher altitudes in order to have time to recover.  Many maneuvers will kill your air speed and stall your plane.  You will need enough altitude to recover safely.


Axis 50

  1. 1)It is recommended that the tail section be reinforced with additional CF tubing or ribbon spars.  Additional CF tubing will be    included on future kits.


  1. 2)Duel rates are recommended for the first few flights.  Keep the throws on low until the CG and trims have been set.  It is strongly suggested that you fly the Suraci at high rates in order to get maximum performance.


  1. 3)The Suraci likes speed.  Keep the air speed up until you locate the full speed range of the plane.


  1. 4)When attempting complex maneuvers or long combinations of “freestyle” flying, be sure to practice these moves from higher altitudes in order to have time to recover.  Many maneuvers will kill your air speed and stall your plane.  You will need enough altitude to recover safely.


August 2, 2008

Please note that the Axis 50 video has a missing segment in the section called “Mating Wings Together.”  The missing segment is the gluing of the top root which comes directly after installing the wing joiners.




Kaze 40

Posted - 9-17-08

Apparently there are some DVD’s that were shipped with kits that are not functioning as intended.  Please contact FSD if you need another copy shipped to you.

Posted - 9-17-08

Like all plank type slopers, dialing in the Kaze is not easy and can be frustrating.  Keep experimenting with the throws and nose weight until it flies as intended.


The instructions call for the CG to be set at 1 3/4” back from the leading edge at the root.  Further test flights indicate that this may be a little nose light.  For your initial (maiden) flight, it is suggested that you error on the side of being too nose heavy.  This will at least insure some stability. You can always remove the weight on subsequent flights.


Current throw settings are as follows:  Down: 40%  Up: 70%

It is important that you do not have your settings too high, especially for your first few flights.  If you experience excess “hyper-stalling” (i.e. the nose bobs up and down), your settings are too high.


If your landing area is rough, consider taping the fuse prior to Gooping.  The area between the canopy and the wing is considered a weak area and could be reinforced.

Posted - 9-19-08

The question came up regarding why hot glue is used on all aspects of gluing except when attaching the wing to the fuse, where 5 minute epoxy is used.  When attaching the fuse, 5 minute epoxy allows you time to adjust the fuse and align it properly before it sets.  Hot glue would not give you this time.  In addition, 5 minute epoxy is a more secure adhesive for this critical part of the build.  As mentioned in the DVD, wherever hot glue is used, you can choose to use 5 minute epoxy instead.

Posted - 9-19-08

Currently I am flying the Kaze at the following settings:  45% down and 55% up. 

Posted - 10-16-08

The Kaze has gone through one major adjustment which is not represented on the build DVD.  In order to strengthen the fuse further, the canopy and subsequent pre-cut fuse bays have been eliminated.  Replacing this arrangement is a single bay cut into the top of the fuse over the CG.  This bay is for the Receiver.  There are no bays cut for the battery or weights.  Another change is the addition of two CF fuse spars which are installed (inserted) on either side of the fuse running from the nose to under the leading edge of the wing saddle. 

Study the diagram to the left to see where both the CF spars are placed and where the Rx battery is placed.


All three spars are pre-installed but ARE NOT glued in place.  Using 5 minute epoxy, install all three CF fuse spars (as shown in diagrams A and B to the left). 


Next, create a battery bay by cutting into the top of the fuse deep enough to place the battery roughly center in the nose (as seen in diagram C).


You will also need to create enough room in the battery bay to place your nose weight.  You will probably want to put in 2.5 oz of weight in the nose.


Once the battery and nose weight is in place, you can seal the fuse up and proceed to finish the fuse as per the DVD instructions.


Be sure that you run the battery wire to the receiver bay before you seal the fuse.

A

B

C